1. A good coat of tough wax before the
boat is used and scratched will insure your hull a longer
lasting finish. (This is especially critical for the colored
2. If you scratch your hull, don't
despair, we can send you some touch up gel and instruction.
(The gel's shelf life is only 3 months, longer if it's well
sealed and kept cool, so it cannot be kept for long periods.)
Small scratches can be sanded out of the gel coat with "fine"
3. If you have teak rails, we are now
using Sikkens Marine (Cetol), which is a teak sealer and final
finish in three coats. The company says it will last a year,
if we get six months that is better than most and it has very
high UV protection. It can be easily touched up in any worn
4. Deck stains can be scrubbed off with
cleaner and scrub brush or removed with acetone. Acetone can
also be used to clean road tar and grease off your hull. (It
will also remove wax. It is powerful, so use it
5. Your bronze fittings will develop a
green patina that looks great. But if you like that shiny look, a good brass cleaner
and elbow grease will do the job. They can also be shined to a
good gloss and then coated with a clear polyurethane for a long
1. If your sails get dirty, they can be
spot cleaned with a clean acetone rag. For overall dinginess
just throw them in a swimming pool that has chlorine in it.
Spread them out and check in one hour. Don't leave them for 2
days, and then complain that they are no longer colored! The
time will vary according to the the amount of chlorine in the
pool but a couple of hours should suffice.
2. Be sure if any stitching comes loose
to attend to the matter ASAP as it will only worsen with use.
Any local sailmaker can restitch this or a sailmakers needle
and nylon or cotton covered polyester thread will let you do
3. After a windy day in salt water, the
sails should be rinsed in fresh water and dried before
1. Hose down the trailer after putting
it in salt water. Even though the trailer is galvanized the
springs and some parts are not and will rust.
2. Check grease in your bearing buddies
often. If you over fill, the bearings will spew the grease all
over your wheels. When you are applying grease with a grease
gun make sure the grease fitting is accepting the grease (it
could be stopped up with dirt). To check for bad bearings,
jack up the trailer and check for play in the wheels. A road
noise will also indicate a bad bearing.
3. A little 3-in-One oil on your winch
handle fittings will insure a smoother turning
4. Check for frayed winch strap and
replace if worn, as this could be a dangerous problem if it
broke while loading the boat.
5. Turning the license plate holder to
the up position will keep you from scraping, bending, and
losing the plate.
1. Sheet lines can be scrubbed white
with bleach added to the scrub water.
2. To keep the mast from rubbing your
gel during traveling, take a pair of heavy socks and put them
over the mast ends. Also on the boom ends to keep from
scratching the interior of your boat.
3. Bungie in your oars and other loose
articles to keep from scratching or otherwise damaging the
This subject is covered in a separate
manual provided by the trailer manufacturer. The following
points in trailing pertain to the Sea Pearl
1. Some means of securing the bow
tightly to the bow roller is needed. This can be either a
separate line, or a loop through the bow eye and under the
tongue with the bow line. This should be checked frequently on
2. The leeboards should be tied together
with a slippery hitch. This prevents them dropping and also
takes the strain off of the cam cleats. The line should be led
over the mast in order to help hold them down.
3. The masts should be lashed to the
forward mooring cleat.
4. A tie down line securing the boat to
the trailer can be attached from the trailer frame to the
trailer frame. This should go over the leeboards and should
include some chafing gear. There are several ways this can be
handled and you should take note of how it is done at delivery
5. The tiller should be lashed firmly
between the stern cleats. A clove hitch will hold it
athwartship and then hitch to cleats. Leave it to one side so
as to present the flat surface to a car following you. This
gives greater visibility than the edge. For longer trips
consider putting the entire rudder assembly in the forward
cockpit, but tie or clamp on a red flag to the upper gudgeon
after doing so.
6. Tow with the cockpit drain plug
removed and the tonneau cover in place and you will survive a
1. Each mast is packaged
2. Main mast has the long bottom or
heavy section and the short top or light section.
3. The mizzen mast has the shortest
heavy section and the longest light section.
4. The main has the longest boom and the
mizzen the shortest.
5. The top section simply fits into the
bottom section. ( no fasteners) However, it is good to tape the
two sections together with a strong tape to eliminate movement
between the two.
6. Both masts will be the same length
when put together.
7. The booms are held into the gooseneck
with fastpin fasteners. Some older models reply on pressure from the outhaul and vangs.
Attachment of booms:
1. Attachment begins ideally with sails
furled around the masts. To furl them, simply hold tension on
the clew of the sail and turn the mast. Another hand or a
gentle breeze is helpful here. We suggest that you do not try
this in a heavy breeze the first time.
2. Position the sail slide near the
center of the boom. (This is so the boom will be balanced after
3. Fasten the clew of the sail to the
boom sail slide with the snap shackle.
4. You are then ready to release the
furled sail and roll it out by turning the mast. Let the sail
support the boom, and slide the outhaul outward as more sail is
unfurled, until it is all out or you have as much out as
desired for the wind conditions.
Caution: Keep the sail flat with tension
against the clew with the outhaul line or boom while you are
unfurling the sail. If you don't, it can have a violent
whipping action in high winds and can cause serious injury when
out of control When done correctly, there is no strain or
violent motion. Practice!
5. Insert the gooseneck pin into the
hole in the boom end. (This step not necessary on newer
reefing goosenecks, as their booms always stay attached while
unfurling or furling the sail.)
6. Attach the sheet line to the boom
bail at aft end of boom.
NOTE: This procedure is for
both main and mizzen. You will also note that this system
allows you to reef very easily by releasing the tension on the
outhaul and removing the vang at the mast. You may then release
the slide lock on the gooseneck and roll up as much sail as you
desire. Reset the slide lock, tighten the outhaul and then snap
on the vang. Easy to do, but practice makes
1. If the top section of your mast is
out of synchronization with the bottom section, merely twist it
before you raise it. Check your downhaul to make sure it is
tight. If you have already raised your mast and find the
problem, loosen the down haul and move the bottom section while
holding tension on the rolled out sail with the boom. A quick
motion is best.
2. The cockpit drain will serve as a
good tool to remove a stubborn water ballast drain plug. It
will also open a beer bottle without twist on caps!
Sea Pearl 21
You will find your Sea Pearl 21 easy to
launch and recover if you will follow these simple
1. Before launching you MUST consider
a. Are there any electric wires
near the ramp or beach?
b. Is there a suitable place to beach
the boat nearby where rigging might be easier?
c. Will you have to rig at the dock
or pier or in a congested area?
d. Will the wind direction let you
rig sails on the trailer and if so would that be
NOTE: The ideal situation is
to launch at a beach where you can step the masts and rig sails
at your leisure. On the other hand if you are launching
alongside a dock, you may want to rig on the ramp as opposed to
the water. You should at least step the masts first in this
2. Remove all tie down lines and the
tonneau cover. Install all drain plugs.
3. Free rudder, leeboard/centerboard
pendants but leave them cleated in the up position.
4. Lay a bow line and stern line, cleat
them off at the ready and lead them forward.
5. Step the masts and lay the booms on
deck. Rig sails if you desire and the wind is
6. Remove the tilt pin from the trailer
if the ramp or beach is shallow.
7. Back trailer in until the tires are
just touching the water (if planning to tilt the trailer), or
the stern of the boat goes into the water (if not planning to
tilt the trailer).
8. Remove winch line at this point and
pass the bow line forward through the chock.
NOTE: If launching beside a
dock or pier, the stern line should be handed to a bystander or
some provision made to control the stern as she
9. Push up and aft and she should slide
easily into the water. If not, check the height of the aft
roller and make sure it is high enough to take most of the
weight. Also make sure you haven't backed TOO FAR into the
water, thus preventing the trailer from tilting.
10. Assuming at this point that the
masts are stepped and sails still furled, you are ready to step
aboard, hoist sail, and sail away. Don't forget to park your
car and trailer, of course... and don't forget to load that
cooler on board, if you haven't already
1. One of the greatest features of the
Sea Pearl 21 is the ability to heave to. For safety and ease of
handling and personal comfort, this feature, above all others,
is one you will use again and again.
TO HEAVE TO - pull the mizzen sheet in tight and release the main
sheet. Let the tiller go (it will turn the rudder blade
sideways) be sure NOT to hold on to the tiler handle.
Your Sea pearl will turn into the wind and stay. Now you
can reef, fish, sleep, read, or fix lunch. She will sail
backwards very slowly. In extremely rough seas with
plenty of "sea room", and where the pressure on the
rudder may be excessive, pull the rudder blade completely
out of the water using the rudder lanyard. This will
increase your speed in reverse, but ensure a safe
backwards motion. Enjoy this unique Cat Ketch
2. In heavy weather, reef the main
first and then the mizzen. One or two turns at a time. This
will keep her in balance. If things get tough quickly, furl
the main altogether, and sail with the mizzen alone or lie
"HOVE TO" with the mizzen reefed for the safest and most
3. To tack with the mizzen
a. Fall off slightly to pick up
b. Tack sharply
c. As soon as the bow comes through the
wind and not before, release the mizzen, (Keep the tiler
d. As she falls off on the other tack,
haul in on the mizzen and harden up into the wind with the
NOTE: The trick here is to NOT
let her get into irons (HOVE TO).
4. To get out of irons (HOVE TO), back
wind the main and bring the tiller amidships, if you have the
main unfurled. As the bow falls off, sheet in the main and
loosen the mizzen slightly. If you are sailing with the mizzen
alone and are in irons, she will be backing down on the rudder.
Put the helm over towards the tack you prefer and release the
mizzen. The stern will move the opposite way. As the bow
falls off, pull in on the mizzen to gain forward
5. Tacking in heavy air when reefed or
in extreme light air, or without the rudder.
a. Put the helm over if you have
b. Release the main and tighten
c. As the bow comes into the wind
release mizzen and tighten main, or back wind it if
d. As bow falls off, tighten mizzen and
you're off on a new tack. It is easier with a rudder
Try this sometime when you don't have
6. When tacking is short distances,
keep both boards down about 1/2 way. This will keep them from
floating out and slowing the tack while the board catches up
with the boat.
7. When sailing off the wind, keep your
8. When anchored, keep a small amount of
mizzen up and sheeted in hard. The boat will point towards the
wind all night, and will not sail around her anchor.
9. When sailing in extreme shallow
water, it helps to heel the boat as much as possible so the
leeboard can get a bite. And you should use the sails for
control if the boat does not respond to the rudder.
10. When sailing in a heavy chop, keep
the boat trim such that you have the maximum heel and that the
bow is riding high. This will give you a dry, comfortable
ride. The spray will be thrown more down and out and the nasty
little curlers will not break over the windward
REEFING - MARCONI
This simple, fool proof, unlimited
reefing system works by taking in sail around the mast, as
1. Release the outhaul tension by
removing the outhaul line from the clam cleat.
2. Release the vang snap
3. Release the flip lock on the new
reefing gooseneck to allow the center ring to turn
4. The mast can now be turned as many
times as necessary to achieve proper reefing. The sleeved sail
will roll up on the mast because the downhaul line will keep it
secured to the mast.
5. When proper reefing is obtained, you
may tighten the outhaul line and cleat it.
6. Reattach the vang and
NOTE: With practice a single
reef can be put in the mizzen from the helmsman's station in as
little as 5 seconds.